Tongren

While the dining options aren't particularly diverse or inspiring, the numerous restaurants offer warmth, large portions and interesting people watching opportunities.

Dried sheep's head is one of the curious delicacies favoured by locals to nibble with a few drinks. It's mostly bone on the outside, necessitating a probe of the cavities for the tasty bits. Numerous roadside vendors sell them for ¥20 and all will assure you it's delicious.

Yak milk yoghurt is freshly made every morning and sold, usually by young Tibetan girls, along the roadside. The flavour is very rich with a tangy or sometimes citrus bite. A spoon of sugar is an option if you prefer it sweeter. A bowl costs about 2Â¥.

Number One Noodle
8 MaiXiu Lu
Noodles/Rice ¥8-12; Mains ¥20-25
On the corner. Look for a sign with red characters with a snowy mountain in the background.

All hyperbole aside, the proprietors are very welcoming to bumbling foreigners furtivly sticking their head inside. Helpful point-and-eat pictures on the wall mostly give prices, though its best to check before ordering the ones without a price as you might discover they are suspiciously expensive at bill paying time.

Name-changing Hui restaurant
Dehelong Zhong Lu
Noodles/Rice ¥4-12
Opposite QH-Tibet Yadu Hotel

One of the numerous names written on the doors is right but it is easily identifiable as the most brightly lit place at night. They have huge servings of the usual capsicum laden Hui dishes. Their mianpian looks like a mess but is stomach filling and good.

Tibetan restaurant
Dehelong Nan Lu
Â¥8-10
Near the Monastery gate

A newish looking place packed with low Tibetan style painted benches serves only three things; MoMo, Jiaozi and Baozi. While the Momo are delectable they are heavy with heart attack inducing amounts of fat that will requite an entire jug of Yak Butter tea to flush out of your digestive system.